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Terry
Reviewed in Canada on August 18, 2024
It worked although it didn’t come with anti-seize compound (thankfully I had some leftover from another sensor).
Keith S
Reviewed in Canada on October 19, 2024
My friend had a check engine light on her 2002 Toyota RAV4. When I scanned the computer, it said that there was a defective oxygen sensor. Ordered this, replaced it, reset the car computer and now the check engine light is off and everything seems to be running as usual.
tth14
Reviewed in Canada on January 3, 2023
Fit perfectly on 2002 RAV4
Wyton1
Reviewed in the United States on April 23, 2022
I definitely like the cost compared to the OEM Toyota one. Installed this exact same A/F sensor in Bank 1 Sensor 1 position on my 2003 Toyota RAV4 and it lasted 10 years, so I figure I got my money's worth from it. The first time I replaced the sensor it was a huge pain to get out, but the sensor I bought ten years ago (and this one) came with a copper-based anti-seize lube for the threads, which I used. The sensor came right out.The other three sensors are all OEM and still working fine, not replaced since new. Maybe I got a dud the first time, maybe bank 1 sensor 1 gets more wear, I don't know. but ten years is good enough for me.
Rocha
Reviewed in Canada on September 30, 2018
I got the engine light on my 2001 Rav4 and the OBD scanner showed the code P1135, which is an indication of a faulty Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1. This is the top sensor on the driver's side.So far so good!
PageTurner
Reviewed in the United States on July 24, 2017
This is correct for 2001 Rav4 1135 code but it goes on the driver's side sensor not the passenger side sensor. The passenger side is the one coming through the hole in the heat shield and the driver's side one is to the side of the heat shield. I'm avoiding confusing right / left terms except to say "driver's side" is the American version not the UK version. Also the connectors are different so if your connector doesn't fit you're putting it the wrong hole. I found a few folks who rewired their sensor(like I did) because I was convinced 1135 was the passenger sensor and not the driver side sensor and they sent me a faulty connector. I was wrong. I made this mistake after seeing some feedback saying their connector was wrong and they fixed it by rewiring it. It didn't hurt anything, it just didn't work and after a lot of splicing I get the failing 1135 (driver's side) sensor to work. I'm also avoiding the bank 1 sensor 1 or 2 and bank 2 sensor 1 or 2 lingo as it's pretty confusing and mis portrayed on various diagrams. This attached diagram seems to be correct.
Customer
Reviewed in the United States on March 8, 2016
Excellent: Easy to Install, (especially with the TEKTON 4929 3/8-Inch Drive by 7/8-Inch Oxygen Sensor Socket)Took 10 minutes tops.I had a "Check Engine" light come on a couple of weeks ago - since the engine started and ran well, I decided to attempt to DIY repair.I Used Amazon's Donop Professional U480 CAN OBD2 OBD II Car Diagnostic Scanner Engine Code Reader Tool (about $22 bucks) to get the Trouble Code "P1135". A couple of minutes of Google search directed me to this Denso (two of the YouTube reviewers linked back to this page, so it was both easy and cheap to obtain the parts.The scanner is hardly "Professional", but it worked just fine and was easy to operate.NOTE: You have to INSERT THE SCANNER PLUG WITH THE IGNITION OFF - but YOU MUST TURN THE IGNITION 'ON' once the reader is plugged in to allow it to 'talk' with the Engine Computer and reveal the proper trouble code.The Denso A/F ratio sensor was close to $100 less than Toyota Dealership wanted, and it arrived (in HI) a week after ordering - ok.All in all, doing my own codes, ordering via Amazon, this repair easily saved me $250 - and took ~ 1 hour total of my time. Time well spent!
Basil
Reviewed in Canada on March 22, 2016
Works as advertised. Fits in 2001 Toyota Rav4.
S. Arias
Reviewed in the United States on December 30, 2012
My 2002 Toyota Rav 4 finally threw out the P1135 and the P1155 codes after 214K miles. That is both Bank 1 and Bank 2 sensors. I'd say this was a good run on the original parts.When I went to the local part store, they wanted $180 for a no-name brand that I questioned if it would last half as long as the original part. Well, thank God for this part on Amazon. Not only is the OEM part, but at $80 cheaper. I saved $160 right off the bat.When it came time to install them, I was a little hesitant due to the fact that the original ones had been mounted on the exhaust for well over ten years. From everywhere that I read on the net, they recommended warming up the engine before attempting removal. To my surprise, the instructions included with the sensor states to remove them with the engine at room temperature. I decided to try the room temperature method first and see how that went. Low and behold, they came off with no fuss. What a relief! Ten minutes later, I was done.Now, I never reset the trouble codes from the car's computer so as to see if the new sensors would solve the issue. After driving the car for about 30 minutes and then parking the car for a couple of hours, the check engine light reset itself. Done, done, and done.Don't buy no name sensors that can be a gamble whether they will last or not. Buy this OEM part at Amazon and get it done right the first time.
mazdarotarytech
Reviewed in the United States on July 30, 2011
Worked great on 2001 toyota rav4. fits sensor 1 position 1 (in the usa that is the top drivers side sensor). first i read the trouble codes with scangauge II , bought the appropriate oxygen sensor , replaced it, cleared the code, and i haven't had any trouble since. before the rav was stumbling really bad on acceleration and not much power.a week later i pulled out the mass air flow (maf) sensor and cleaned it with maf sensor cleaner because the scangauge was giving me 2 new codes about lean mixture. i used half a can on that sensor. i cleared the codes and haven't seen them since. rav runs great now. i am about to pull the fuel injectors and get them cleaned because the car has over 80K miles on it so i know they need cleaning. i found out you should clean the maf once every few years depending on your environment because air filter lint and other contaminants can built up on it. the maf is actually a combo of maf and iat. i have pics but i will post later. the scangauge2 works great by-the-way , well worth the money. oh, rav is getting 29mpg on highway with the tires at 55psi. can't wait to see what i get with clean fuel injectors. i'll probably clean the throttle body when i remove the injectors i am sure it needs it.
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