XHF UL Listed 1/2 Inch 10Ft 3:1 Waterproof Heat Shrink Tubing Roll Marine Grade Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tube, Insulation Sealing Oil-Proof Wear-Resistant Black

Don’t go smaller than 4awg wire. This stuff is great, been using it for years. Works well outdoors, holds its seal. I have some on some security cameras out doors in the elements for the past 8 years and it’s still holding up. Matter of fact this heat shrink has outlasted the cameras.

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Great stuff! I ordered the 2.5" diameter and it's to spec. Don't listen to the reviews about bad measurements from the factory, especially the ones with pictures that prove they don't know simple geometry... The diameter of this heat shrink is 2.5" - DIAMETER - Meaning the distance across a circle, crossing the center. Diameter does NOT mean you can squish the heat shrink flat and expect it to still be 2.5"... Obviously, if you do that, you're going to get more than 2.5".Great quality just requires a lot of heat and time! I set my heat gun to 800 F and didn't have any issues. Just heat it evenly and take your time. It's easy to cut and trim, the adhesive is great, I have no complaints! I used some of it to make a shield for the lower portion of my TW200's kickstand.

Excellent quality. Good price. Did the job well as expected.

This heat tubing is amazing. It is a great value for the money. Does he drink tubing is very durable and a very good white. When you shrink the tubing, it creates a good fitment seal that has glue that you can see push pushing out of the joint, which is really nice. You can tell it’s a good seal.

Bought to secure ferrite beads on a length of LMR-400 acting as a choke line for antennas operating between 1.8 - 30 MHz. The shrink ratio is right at the limit for LMR-400 but I find the tubing will shrink down to a snug fit and acceptable adhesive seal on LMR-400 cable. On reeipt, it wasn't obvious that the product is really adhesive lined but it became clear on installation that the adhesive does activate with heating and does form a sealing bead at the tubing ends where it meets the cable jacket. One point of advice which I forgot about when using adhesive lined heat shrink. Start heating/shrinking from one end only - do not shrink down at both ends and then attempt to shrink the rest toward the middle. That will trap an air bubble between the sealed ends and the tubing will not shrink down because of the expanding trapped air. If you forget this (like I did), simply pierce the tubing at one end by cutting a small slit or hole, then continue shrinking from the farthest end from the hole and work your way up. The hole may self seal when you finish up; if not, put a dab of liquid tape or a couple of turns of vulcanising rubber tape over it and all is well.

Inner diameter is NOT 15mm, it's about 22mm - which sucks if you are trying to heatshrink video camera power connectors that are approximately 14mm

Work as intended I got the clear ones perfect .. the fold doesn't impact the product

I’ve used many brands of heat shrink with my electrical hobbies and this is by far some of the best stuff I’ve used. I’ve used plenty of “high end” shrink tubing in my day.By far the best. Tough as nails. Nice and thick and strong. I’ve mainly been using for 2 AWG wire and it’s great. I used a temperature controlled heat shrink gun that has various sized nozzles for precision work. For me I have found 650F to be the sweet spot for working with this stuff. Shrinks slowly but not too slow at this temp. You can see the tubing start to get of a glossy sheen when it’s done (others do this too). You get a good amount of glue for a waterproof seal though I would never use this is a submerged environment personally.I sometimes double up and use two cuts for an even tougher protection. However this does make it much thicker if space is an issue. Honestly it’s overkill but I sometimes do it.Buy with confidence this stuff is awesome.

I bought a 3/4 inch diameter but it's more than an inch, this doesn't work! Will return the product.

I really want to give this 5 stars because it is great tubing, but knocking one off because the 2" clear does not have any glue as stated. As it turns out, this was better for my application and the clear is a bit more cushy/flexible than the color are, so all is well. The only clear I've ever used was very small diameter and it was known glueless tubing...maybe it's normal with clear and the XHF normal colored tubing has glue like usual. But this is good stuff. Longitudinal shrink is almost zero, which is great.It does do a full 3:1 shrink but you'll need a heat gun, not just a hair dryer (or god forbid, a lighter) - you can do those methods with smaller 2:1 tubing but if you want the full shrink on 3:1 and in medium to larger sizes, you need better heat application.In the photo is some 1.5" black 3:1 from TEMCo and this 2" clear from XHF. Fully shrunk it's around 11/16" diameter with a good thick wall (almost like PEX pipe but softer...stiffer than PVC/vinyl tubing). It's noticeably softer than any black/red tubing I've used but it's till rigid enough to support and protect - grabs more dust than the colors and may be more prone to abrasion but this is still soft shrink tubing, not a jacket.I guess heed the glue warning if that's important to you, but otherwise highly recommended and I'll buy some other sizes from XHF in the future. Some of the 3:1 tubing out there isn't very good or just so-so, but this brand and the TEMCo are both excellent.

My True treadmill front roller is small diameter (1.75") and had a plastic sleeve on it to increase friction for advancing the belt. In time, this sleeve split and bunched up causing an annoying sound when using the treadmill. The fix for this is to remove the remnant plastic sleeve, clean the roller and cover it with a piece of shrink tube. The 2" variety of XHF tube was selected and delivered in one day by Amazon. A heat gun was sufficient to shrink the tube onto the treadmill roller, although not without a few small ripples in the finished job. After reassembly with the shrink tube covered roller the treadmill is operating perfectly and much quieter than before. The XHF shrink tube worked well for this application and I am very satisfied with the result at low cost.The small ripples noted in the result appear to have no effect on treadmill operation but it would be a neater job without them. Here are some ideas that might help reduce the likelihood of a wrinkle: the shrink tube is delivered flat - introducing creases midway between the existing creases might help the shrink tube fit more uniformly around the roller prior to shrinkage; shrink the tube a little bit at a time over its entire length rather starting in the middle as I did and shrinking that section down tight before moving toward the ends.Edit 1/11/2020The treadmill developed an annoying sticky-flappy sound again after nine months of quiet. The sleeve previously applied on the treadmill roller with the heat shrink tube was loose and would easily slide up and down the roller - a snug fit still, but no longer fixed tightly to the roller (so much for the ‘adhesive’ properties this heat shrink tubing is supposed to have). This small space between tube and roller must be the cause of the noise. (I missed a trick here: I should have tried to affix the sleeve again by applying heat). I tried unsuccessfully to use shrink tube of initial diameter 1.75 but could not get it on the roller more than a few inches before friction got too great to pull it on further. So back to the original 2” shrink tube. Luckily the length of the roller was less than 24" so I had plenty left over from the initial four foot section to make another roller cover. I sanded the surface of the treadmill roller to make it rougher and cleaned it well with isopropyl alcohol. I tried flattening the tube to set a crease halfway from the initial crease in the using piles of books; that didn't really do much to add a new permanent crease. I did change my shrinking technique a little: starting at one end I concentrated on first shrinking the portions of tube that stuck out most from the roller (caused by the crease from the flattened tubing). After shrinking those portions on opposite sides of the roller, I applied heat to the area in between. By this method I was able to shrink the tube on the roller with practically no remaining ripples or bumps; a big improvement over the first attempt. I used a Dewalt heat gun at 400 degrees F for shrinking and the process took about twenty minutes. This sort of tubing is supposed to shrink at around 210 F but it would be an incredibly slow process. I toyed with the idea of ‘curing’ the tubing even more in my kitchen over but caution won out: one end of the roller has a ridged end cap pressed on for the drive belt pulley and this cap appeared to be made from plastic. I would be majorly sad if the oven curing melted or deformed that cap. So that should be it. Hopefully I won’t be writing about attempt number three in the near future.